Ajloun, Jordan

73 km north of Amman, and a short journey northwest from Jerash, through a beautiful pine-forest and olive groves, brings you to the town of Ajloun, where Hadrian stayed over the winter of 129-30 AD, and built himself an arch well outside the town, leaving unbonded its sides for future city walls to come out to meet it.

Here you will find the Castle of Ajloun or Qalaat Errabadh (Arabic for "Hilltop Castle"), from which there is a splendid view westwards into the Jordan Valley. It looks like a Crusader fortress, but it was built by Muslims in 1184-85 as a military fort and buffer to protect the region from invading Crusader forces. It was built on the orders of the local governor, Ezz Eddin Osama bin Munqethe, a nephew of the Ayyubid leader Salahuddin Al-Ayyoubi (Saladin), as a direct retort to the new Latin castle of Belvoir (Kawkab El-Hawa) on the opposite side of the valley between the Tiberias and Besan, and as a base to develop and control the iron mines of Ajloun.

This superb example of Arab and Islamic architecture was built as a rectangle with four square towers and an entrance on the south side dominating a wide stretch of the north Jordan Valley and passages to it. From its hilltop position, the Castle of Ajloun protected the communication routes between south Jordan and Syria, and was one of a chain of forts, which lit beacons at night to pass signals from the Euphrates as far as Cairo.

Two years after it was completed the fortress's original purpose had already been outlived, for Salahuddin defeated the Crusaders at the battle of the Horns of Hattin in 1189, which marked the beginning of the end of their occupation of the Holy Land.

In 1214-15 the Castle of Ajloun was enlarged by Aybak bin Abdullah, majordomo of the Caliph Al-Muazham Isa; in 1260 it fell to the Mongols, but was later rebuilt by the Egyptian Mamluks. No longer needed for military purposes, it was used as an administrative center responsible to Damascus.

Some of the stones with which the castle was built have crosses carved into them, giving credence to a tradition, recounted by a 13th century Arab historian that: "an ancient monastery once stood on the site, inhabited by a Christian named Ajloun; when the monastery fell into ruin, the castle took its place and the name of the monk".

The castle today is beautifully preserved and is a popular attraction for foreigners & Jordanians alike. The structures, towers, chambers, galleries and staircases that form part of the town as well as the beautiful scenery that surrounds the hills nearby will captivate you.

Jordan Map & Sites

A host of prophets graced Jordan by living in or traveling through Jordan, these include Nuh (Noah), Lut (Lot), El-Khedr (St. George), Ibrahim (Abraham), Ilyas (Elijah), Hud, Shu'ayb (Jethro), Yosha' (Joshua) his tomb near Salt, Musa (Moses) the site of his death on Mount Nebo, Harun (Aaron) his tomb in Petra, Dawud (David) his Shrine in Mazar Al-Shamali near Kerak, Sulayman (Solomon), Ayyub (Job), Yahya (John), Eesa (Jesus), and prophet Mohammad, Peace and blessing be upon them All.Jordan Map & Sites

A host of prophets graced Jordan by living in or traveling through Jordan, these include Nuh (Noah), Lut (Lot), El-Khedr (St. George), Ibrahim (Abraham), Ilyas (Elijah), Hud, Shu'ayb (Jethro), Yosha' (Joshua) his tomb near Salt, Musa (Moses) the site of his death on Mount Nebo, Harun (Aaron) his tomb in Petra, Dawud (David) his Shrine in Mazar Al-Shamali near Kerak, Sulayman (Solomon), Ayyub (Job), Yahya (John), Eesa (Jesus), and prophet Mohammad, Peace and blessing be upon them All.

Interactive Map of Jordan

It’s been fourteen years since the passing of his late Majesty King Hussein of Jordan, and during these 14 years, there isn’t a day that goes buy where a Jordanian does not remember a great King, a father, a leader, and an inspirational world icon of peace. Today is a day where everyone remembers the late King. Today, the 14th of November would have marked the 77th birthday of his late majesty, and yet once cannot help but remember and pray.

The photo above dates back to August 11th, 1952, His Majesty King Hussein, accompanied by Jordanian Prime Minister Tawfiq Abul Huda, in the procession for the Accession to the Throne ceremony.

This beautiful smile can warm up the coldest and rainiest Jordanian winter day.

 His Majesty delivering a speech from a car megaphone to crowds in Mafraq, Jordan, July, 1974.

Remember this beautiful photo of his Majesty? This timeless picture dates back to 1978 and was taken by Zohrab at the time.

The black and white photo above may not ring a bell to many people, but it shows how compassionate His late Majesty was. He remembered people, you didn’t have to be royalty to be remembered, loved, or check upon. You just had to have a distant memory with his Majesty and he would sure remember you. The photo was when King Hussein returns to visit his old school, Victoria College. He was happy to see that the school doorman was in good health and still working at his old job. This was taken in Alexandria, Egypt, September, 1988.

Look at the beauty in the photo of the above. King Hussein listens to a Bedouin woman with a smile, open arms, and welcoming gestures. Show me a world leader who is willing to take so much time out of their precious life to listen to those who are truly in need.

Photo by Zohrab.

A beautiful and touching photo. King Hussein places a tender kiss atop a young orphan’s forehead. He was a great father to all of us.  

I am not sure of the date of this photo, I just love the angle of the shot, the Jordanian flags fluttering in the near background, the military uniforms, and most of all, His Majesty in official uniform while he reviews a guard of honor before addressing Parliament.

Photo By Allan

A great leader can do wonders. The photo above also by Allan, was taken back in 1997, when King Hussein was visiting Salt during a pre-election tour of the country to encourage Jordanians to vote.

His Late Majesty King Hussein of Jordan with His Majesty king Abduallah of Jordan.

Take the time to remember King Hussein every day, below is a video that breaks my heart, yet is worth sharing. The funeral of his Late Majesty on the 7th of Feb 1999.  A day where the skies broke down into tears of rain mourning his Majesty, a day where most Jordanians where either out on the streets waving their goodbyes, or glued behind their TV screens crying their eyes out.

Allah Yerhamak! You are missed every single day .

Discover what makes Jordan a must go to place with this list of experiences you can have in Jordan.

1) Stroll through Petra’s Siq

One of the most elegant remains and   visually stunning archaeological sites in the ancient world, hidden behind an almost impenetrable barrier of rugged mountains, boast incomparable scenes that make it the most majestic and imposing ancient site still standing nowadays. Petra is amongst the Seven Wonders of the World.

Take a walk along the 1.5 KM-Long Siq and gaze upon the grandiose Treasury, an architectural marvel carved out of solid rock and standing over 40 meters high.

Discover more about Petra

2) Familiarize Yourself with the Roman Amphitheatre

Take a journey 2,000 years back in time with a visit to the ruins of this impressive amphitheatre.

Discover more about  Ancient Roman

3) The Ancient Ruins in Jerash are Well-Worth a Visit

A variety of well-preserved and accessible set of ruins with a full-sized hippodrome, two theatres, and some Christian churches with great mosaics inside.

Discover more about Jerash

4) Pay a Visit to the Citadel in Amman

This archaeological landmark features remnants from various cultures.

Discover more about Amman

5) Float in the Dead Sea

Also called the Salt Lake is one of the  most spectacular natural and spiritual landscapes in the whole world. The Dead Sea is the only place in the world that combines it all; year-round moderate weather, an enriched oxygen atmosphere, therapeutic UVB solar radiation (the safest place to suntan), a mineral rich salt sea, world famous mineral black mud, thermo-mineral hot springs and world class spas. Simply put the best place in the world to pamper your body and soul and experience a world of serenity and awe.

Discover more about Dead Sea

6) See the Fascinating Map of the Holy Land

Also known as the “The city of Mosaics “ is an ancient town of Jordanian Plateau, which was resettled by Christian Arab tribes form the Karak region in 1880 AD. Madaba’s real masterpiece, in the Orthodox church of Saint George, is the 6th century AD mosaic map. Surrender your eyes to the fine detailed mosaic art of the church depicting Jerusalem and the Holy Land.

Discover more about Madaba

7) Visit the Site Where Jesus was Baptized

The baptism site at the Jordan River is one of the most important recent discoveries in biblical archeology. The area known as Wadi Kharar is believed to be where John the Baptist lived and Jesus Christ was baptized. It was here that Jesus first prayed to god and gathered his first disciples. 

Discover more about Bethany Beyond

8) Enjoy a Dive Adventure in Aqaba

The sea in the Gulf of Aqaba is almost invariably calm with temperatures varying between 19/20 C in winter and 26 C in summer. All diving is shore based as Aqaba offers fringing reef which commences at the shoreline.

Discover more about Aqaba

9) Spend Some Time at a Holy Pilgrimage Site

 The place where Moses viewed the   Holy Land and is believed to have been buried. It is the most reserved holy site in Jordan and a place of pilgrimage for early Christians. Mount Nebo’s first church was built in the late fourth century to commemorate the end of Moses’ life. The church was subsequently expanded in the 5th and 6th centuries into the present day large basilica with its stunning collection of Byzantine mosaics. A site full of history and spirituality.

Discover more about Mount Nebo

10) Visit One of Jordan’s Nature Reserves

Dana Nature Reserve is compose of a chain of valleys and mountains where its visitors are awed by the beauty of Rummana Mountain, the mystery of the  ancient archaeological ruins of Feynan, the timeless serenity of Dana Village, and the grandeur of the red and white sandstone cliffs of Wadi Dana.

Discover more about Dana

There are thousands of reasons for you to visit Jordan the next time you plan on visiting a country. Earlier this evening, I was trying to figure out where I’d be travelling this year, and most of the time, I am more than happy engaging in conversations with the citizens of the cities I visit, learning more about them, their culture, and what makes their country so special to them. So virtually before I get the chance to retaliate and tell them about my Jordan in person.

[1] A peaceful haven in a troubled area

My heart goes out to all the countries in the region, and the messy revolutions and massacre’s that are taking place. Over and over, I thank God for the peace of Jordan. The piece of mind you have knowing you can walk down the street at night because there is a cop at every corner. I cherish my country because women can wear regular clothing without being harassed, and it is not considered off for a woman not to be wearing a hijab (head cover).

[2] The Lowest point of Earth

The surface of the Dead Sea is 423 metres below Sea Level! Yes, the lowest point on earth is in our country, a place which you can consider an open-air Spa as it has the highest level of Oxygen’s, lowest level of damage caused by the sun by sunbathing, and the minerals in the Dead Sea date back to usage for thousands of years. Only here can you wrap yourself in a natural mud that can relish your skin, and float in the sea while reading your favorite book or magazine.

[3] One of the 7 Wonders of the World

What makes the Rose City of Petra special, isn’t only the shades of Gold/Tan/Rose/Beige that reflect off the rock depending on the angle of the sun, it’s the fact that this entire city is pretty much carved into a mountain. Yes carved! No matter how much you read, you can never be prepared for that majestic glimpse that you catch as you walk down the narrow Siq, and catch an eye of the Rose City just before you finish your journey down the siq to admire the whole view.

[4] Get a glimpse of Rome in the heart of the Middle East

The Roman ruins left behind in Jordan are vast. You can almost hear the horses run around the city of Jerash like they thousands of years ago, where two theatres, and a few Christian churches with mosaics stood the test of time. You can also visit the Roman Amphitheatre and the citadel in the heart of the city after you stroll around local markets.

[5] Appreciate the Holy Land

Only in Jordan would you be able to appreciate the baptism site where Jesus Christ was baptized, be fascinated with the Orthodox church of Saint George which has a mosaic map that outlines Jerusalem and the Holy Land, and of course walk up to the place where Moses viewed the holy land on Mount Nebo.

[6] Act like The Lawrence of Arabia

Whether it’s enjoying a hospitable cup of tea with a Bedouin, gazing to an uninterrupted view of the shining stars or riding a camel through the Wadi Rum dessert! Hollywood gave the movie ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ a standing ovation when it was nominated for more than seven Oscars 50 years ago, and the beauty of the Jordanian dessert didn’t go unappreciated.

I could go on and on, but I’ll save that for another post, probably a Ammani post which tells you about the city that I live in and blurt out these Sleepless posts. Until then, be safe!

The People - People of Ajloun 

- The Ajloun area has a long history of human settlement, due to its Mediterranean climate, dense forests and fertile soil. This rich history is reflected in the many archaeological ruins scattered in the woodlands and surrounding villages. In the village of Tubna, the visitor will find a Zeidanian mosque and a meeting hall dating back to 1750 AD The visitor will also find a structure known as “Al’ali Shreidah”, home of the governor of the region before the establishment of modern Jordan. The governor’s home was much admired by the contemporaries due to the fast that it was the first two-level building in the region.

- The Ajloun Castle (Qal’at Ar-Rabad) built by Saladin’s nephew [1184 AD] is another important archeological landmark. The castle was built to control the iron mines of Ajloun, and to counter the progress of the Crusaders by dominating the three main routes leading to the Jordan valley and protecting the communication routes between Jordan and Syria.

- Settlement in Zubia Village/ Ajloun area dates back to the Byzantine period. There are also houses and stables dating back several hundred years. A spring located in a valley between Zubia and Tubna served as a major source of water for the surrounding settlements. Today, there are more than ten villages surrounding the Ajloun Reserve. Some villagers are involved in farming crops such as grapes, figs and olives while others work in the public sector. Ajloun area is famous for its olive trees and its assorted products.

- In General, the Jordanian population is almost entirely Arab except for pockets of people from Armenia, Chechnya, and a very small community of Circassians (the oldest indigenous people of North Caucasus). Although there are no accurate figures to date, it is estimated that up to 75 percent of the Jordanian population is Palestinian. The Palestinian people have been flooding into Jordan since the creation of the state of Israel in 1948, when they were either forced to leave their homes or subjected to such economic, cultural, and political hardship that they felt compelled to leave.

Armenian people

Chechnya people

Guard  Royal  Jordanian (Circassians )

- There are existing tensions between the Jordanians who inhabited the country before 1948 and the refugees and immigrants who have since settled. The former group are known as the “East Bankers” and the latter group known as “West Bankers.” Despite these tensions, the 2 communities are deeply inter-linked socially and economically. Many Palestinians living in Jordan refer to themselves as Jordanians, and it is hard to generalize about the loyalty and identity of the Palestinian population. In addition, there are 1 million foreign workers in the kingdom mainly from Egypt, Syria, and Iraq who perform menial, physical, and in some cases managerial jobs.

The History - Ajloun rich History 

- The Ajloun area has a long history of human settlement, due to its Mediterranean climate, dense forests, and fertile soil. This rich history is reflected in the many archaeological ruins scattered in the woodlands and surrounding villages.

- In the village of Tubna, the visitor will find a Zeidani mosque and a meeting hall dating back to 1750 AD. The visitor will also find a structure known as “Al’ali Shreidah,” home of the governor of the region before the establishment of modern Jordan. The governor’s home was much admired by the contemporaries due to the fact that it was the first two-level building in the region.

- Settlement in Zubia Village – Ajloun Area dates back to the Byzantine period. There is an area in the village known as “the monastery,” which contains the remains of an old Byzantine church. There are also houses and stables dating back several hundred years. A spring located in a valley between Zubia and Tubna served as a major source of water for the surrounding settlements. 

- Today, there are more than ten villages surrounding the Ajloun Reserve. Some villagers are involved in farming crops such as grapes, figs and olives while others work in the public sector. The Ajloun area is famous for its olive trees and its assorted products.

- Ajloun Castle, more formally known as Qal’at Ar-Rabad, is the major ancient monument within the Ajloun region. It towers above the green hills and can be seen from many miles away, betraying its strategic purpose as a military watch post that protected the trade routes in the 12th-15th centuries. It was first built in 1184 by one of Saladin’s generals, Izzeddin Usama Mungidh, to repel the Crusader threats to north Jordan (the Crusaders had already occupied south Jordan, from their massive castles at Showbak and Karak, and were driven out of TransJordan in 1188/1189). The Ajloun castle was expanded into its current configuration in 1214.

- The castle is one of the best preserved and most complete examples of Medieval Arab-Islamic military architecture. Among its main features are a surrounding dry moat, a drawbridge into the main entrance, the fortified entrance gate (with decorative stone pigeon carvings), a massive south tower, and several other towers on all sides. The castle boasts a labyrinth of vaulted passages, winding staircases, long ramps, enormous rooms that served as dining halls, dormitories, and stables, a total of 11 water cisterns, and the private quarters of the Lord of the Castle (complete with a small stone bathtub and rectangular windows that convert into arrow-slits for defensive purposes).

- From the top of the castle, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Jordan Valley and the highlands of north Jordan. Excavations have recently identified a church that was built on the castle site in the earlier Byzantine period, while restoration and conservation works have made all areas of the castle accessible and safe for visitors.

The Nature - Nature at its best

- The large pine forest that stretches from Ajloun towards the north is a unique environmental resource, for it is the southernmost complete pine forest in the world. The area’s cool forests, beautiful picnic areas, and extensive walking trails attract visitors throughout the April-October season, especially from the Gulf and other warmer regions of the Middle East.

- The combination of the invigorating forests, clean air, cool summer temperatures, easy access from all northern Jordan, and a series of major antiquities sites make this a leading tourism destination, for both international and domestic tourists.

- The Ajloun Campsite is located at the edge of the forest in the reserve. It occupies a large grassy clearing, enclosed by oak, pistachio and strawberry trees, and offers beautiful views of the reserve and beyond. There are 10 four- person tented bungalows available and nearby showers and toilets. The Ajloun Campsite opens from the 1st of April till the 31st of October.

- The Ajloun Nature Reserve is located in the Ajloun highlands (North of Amman). It consists of Mediterranean-like hill country, dominated by open woodlands of oak and pistachio trees. The Reserve was first established in 1988 when a captive-breeding programme for the Roe Deer was initiated.

The Reserve (13 sq. km) is located in an area named Eshtafeena. The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature has set up two hiking trails and provides a special area for camping.

- Ajloun’s woodlands consist mostly of oak trees, interspersed with pistachio, pine, carob, and wild strawberry trees. These trees have long been important to local people for their wood, scenic beauty and, very often, for medicine and food.

- The Roe Deer is adapted to forest habitat, and feeds on a variety of trees, shrubs and grasses. The rich Mediterranean-like forests that covered the Ajloun area provided an ideal habitat for millennia. However, deforestation and desertification over the past 200 years led to the decline in numbers of the Roe Deer. Three Roe Deer were introduced to the captive breeding enclosure in Ajloun in 1988, from a similar habitat in Turkey, and their numbers are now increasing.

- The Persian Fallow Deer is another species that was once common in Jordan. This animal probably became extinct by the turn of the century although measures are in place to ensure their return to the local countryside. This species of deer derives its name from the old English word “falu,” meaning “brownish-yellow,” which describes the colour of its coat.

The Attractions - where to go

- 73 km north of Amman, and a short journey northwest from Jerash, through a beautiful pine-forest and olive groves, brings you to the town of Ajloun, where Hadrian stayed over the winter of 129-30 AD, and built himself an arch well outside the town, leaving unbonded its sides for future city walls to come out to meet it.

- Here you will find the Castle of Ajloun or Qalaat Errabadh (Arabic for “Hilltop Castle”), from which there is a splendid view westwards into the Jordan Valley. It looks like a Crusader fortress, but it was built by Muslims in 1184-85 as a military fort and buffer to protect the region from invading Crusader forces. It was built on the orders of the local governor, Ezz Eddin Osama bin Munqethe, a nephew of the Ayyubid leader Salahuddin Al-Ayyoubi (Saladin), as a direct retort to the new Latin castle of Belvoir (Kawkab El-Hawa) on the opposite side of the valley between the Tiberias and Besan, and as a base to develop and control the iron mines of Ajloun.

- This superb example of Arab and Islamic architecture was built as a rectangle with four square towers and an entrance on the south side dominating a wide stretch of the north Jordan Valley and passages to it. From its hilltop position, the Castle of Ajloun protected the communication routes between south Jordan and Syria, and was one of a chain of forts, which lit beacons at night to pass signals from the Euphrates as far as Cairo.

- Ajloun Castle GateTwo years after it was completed the fortress’s original purpose had already been outlived, for Salahuddin defeated the Crusaders at the battle of the Horns of Hattin in 1189, which marked the beginning of the end of their occupation of the Holy Land.

- In 1214-15 the Castle of Ajloun was enlarged by Aybak bin Abdullah, majordomo of the Caliph Al-Muazham Isa; in 1260 it fell to the Mongols, but was later rebuilt by the Egyptian Mamluks. No longer needed for military purposes, it was used as an administrative center responsible to Damascus.

- Some of the stones with which the castle was built have crosses carved into them, giving credence to a tradition, recounted by a 13th century Arab historian that: “an ancient monastery once stood on the site, inhabited by a Christian named Ajloun; when the monastery fell into ruin, the castle took its place and the name of the monk”.

- The castle today is beautifully preserved and is a popular attraction for foreigners & Jordanians alike. The structures, towers, chambers, galleries and staircases that form part of the town as well as the beautiful scenery that surrounds the hills nearby will captivate you.